Restaurant review: Shiso

I am going to write restaurant reviews on here, whenever I find a good, new one – with a view to ‘maybe attempting to cook something like that myself one day’.

Here’s one I made earlier:

Shiso on Hornsey High Street is one of those places that probably suffers from its “local” location.

It looks super cute from the outside – its windows are decorated in Pac Man-like designs – but because it’s, y’know, “just down the road” it seems to get overlooked.

Which is a shame because look how cute it is:

It has crisp white walls and crisp white linen but the clean space is filled with super-cute paraphernalia including a mini chopper bike on one table, model Canada geese ‘flying’ from the ceiling, decorative animal skulls on the walls, spray-painted in bright colours, an old Subbuteo table, and retro tin cigarette machines – housing candles, not fags.

Oh and the food… The sushi is all made fresh at the open sushi bar/kitchen which gives the place a real buzz (even when empty-ish). Tempura king prawns were big, fresh and juicy and coated in a fluffy light batter, a turbot special, done in a Japanese cerviche-style – i.e cooked in lemon juice and garlic and topped with a dot of chilli and coriander – was a little explosion of zing on the tongue, while salmon teriyaki and free-rage chicken teriyaki mains were piping hot with flavours which managed to battle their way through two lots of flu-battered taste buds. The little bowls of sticky rice and a side of perfectly, bouncy and vinegary seaweed and cucumber was also delish. With wine (glass) and fizzy water (big bottle) it all came to £35.

If you’re ever Crouch End/Hornsey-way, check it out. And one day, I might give sushi-making a go. But that day is probably a way off.


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